As soon as September began, Chanel introduced a new model of the Premiere watch to the world. The Premiere is Chanel’s first watch collection.
The new watch is a series of two types: “Galon,” which matches an octagonal case unique to the collection with a bangle-shaped bracelets, and “Premier Iconic Chain,” which changes the leather twisted chain bracelets. It was a model that received attention at the Watch’s & Wonders watch fair held in Geneva, Switzerland in April, and was officially released for the fall season. The new watch retains the identity of the Premiere collection and adds design sensibility unique to the fashion house, giving it a different charm from the existing model. Chanel introduced the Premiere watch in 1987 to challenge the field of watches outside the realm of fashion. It was the result of focusing on capturing the aesthetic spirit and identity of the brand, living up to its name, which means “first.”
Every element was Chanel’s signature, including an octagonal case inspired by the N°5 perfume bottle cap, glass with sloped surfaces, black lacquer dials, and bracelets inspired by a bag strap woven from leather and chain. Considering that women’s watches were usually a miniature version of the men’s design at the time, the Premiere was a rare watch created only for women. Upon its arrival, the watch left a strong impression on women and immediately became a representative product of the brand. It is still produced and loved more than 40 years later. In 2022, the company unveiled the “Premiere Original Edition,” which was rearranged to mark its 35th birthday. Arnaud Chastating, the brand’s director of watchmaking creation studios, emphasized the symbolism of the Premiere, saying it is “Chanelle’s DNA and a model that condenses the brand’s code from one to ten.” The Premiere Galon, which was unveiled this year, is a model that took a step further from the original model through the change of Bracelet. Instead of the leather chain, it chose a bangle shape that gives a bold feel, and the case size was reduced compared to the original model (26.1 ⅹ 20 mm), adding to the charm of the jewelry (19.7 ⅹ 15.2 mm). “Galon” is a French word that means a jacket’s collar, sleeve, or pocket to be worn over it. It is an element that has been used as an important detail in Chanel’s costume design for a long time since the founder was active. Applying this motif, the bracelets are made in the twisted form of a convex silhouette. The entire watch, from the case to the bracelets, is made of 18-carat yellow gold, which is good for enjoying the warm gold. The version with brilliant cut white diamonds on the case and bracelets gives a more glamorous look. On the black lacquer dial is the hour and minute hands powered by a high-precision quartz movement. Accessories were an indispensable part of founder Gabriel Chanel’s style. Taking over the touch, Chanel released two kinds of watches that changed the leather twisted chain bracelet, the symbol of the Premiere watch. The “Premiere Iconic Chain Double Low Watch” is designed to create a bracelets that can be wound twice around the wrist. The “Premiere Iconic Chain Necris Watch” is a necklace-type product that is equipped with a pendant-shaped case on a long chain. This is a limited edition product that can also be worn in a choker style by hanging the chain long or winding the chain twice. Both models faithfully follow the design codes of original models such as an octagonal case, black lacquer dial, and sapphire crystal glass that gives a three-dimensional effect through an inclined surface. As is widely known, the octagonal case, which was also used for perfume bottle caps, was inspired by the shape of Paris’ Bangdome Square overlooking from the sky. The case material is yellow gold coated steel, and the “Double Row Watch” also features a still version. Like other première watches, it has a simple and practical function of hour and minute display.
SALLY LEE
US ASIA JOURNAL
