As criticism grew that it was trying to make commercial gains by borrowing traditional Indian culture without permission, Prada admitted that the design was inspired by Indian tradition.
According to the BBC on the 29th, Prada acknowledged that the design was inspired by traditional Indian shoes in response to criticism that the recently unveiled shoe design was similar to the traditional Indian sandal Kolarpuri Chapal.
The sandals with the design in question were unveiled last week at Milan Fashion Week. Critics pointed out that the design of the leather pattern with the big toe separated and braided is similar to that of traditional sandals made in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
Prada introduced the sandals as leather shoes, but did not mention that they referred to traditional Indian shoes, prompting criticism in India that they borrowed traditional culture without permission.
In response, Prada said in a statement to the BBC, “We acknowledge that the sandals were inspired by traditional Indian shoes.” Prada has always respected the craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions, Prada said, adding that she is in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce regarding this matter.
The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce previously sent a letter to Prada to protest that it was commercialized without comment, ignoring the contribution of artisans who have preserved traditions for generations.
In response, Lorenzo Bertelli, head of corporate social responsibility (CSR) at Prada, said in a media outlet that “the sandals are still in the early stages of design. We are opening up conversations for meaningful exchanges with local Indian artisans and will hold additional meetings later.”
The Kollapuri sandals are named after the city of Kollapur in Maharashtra, and have been made since the 12th century. They are made of leather and are sturdy and suitable for India’s hot weather. The sandals received a Geographical Indication (GI) certification from the Indian government in 2019. GI is a system that officially recognizes that a particular product originated in a particular region.
In the wake of the controversy, artisans in Kolapur region expressed regret over Prada’s unauthorized use of the traditional design. “These sandals are made by the leather craftsmen in Kolapur who sweaty,” Kolapurian artisan Praba Satpute told BBC Marathi edition. “They should be named after Kolapur. Do not use other people’s labor.”
Prada has not disclosed the price of these sandals, but the brand’s other sandals are priced between £600 and £1,000 in the UK. In India, you can buy a Kollapuri Chapal for hundreds of rupees and 10,000 won in Korean won. Indian businessman Harsh Goenka pointed out, “Local artisans rarely make money, but global brands profit by using our culture.”
SALLY LEE
US ASIA JOURNAL
